Reverse Basic Ribbed Sock

I'm very fond of my Basic Ribbed Sock pattern -- I use it a lot. And I use it a lot with variegated yarns. I was looking at a half-completed Basic Ribbed Sock in a nice black and white mix of variegated yarn, when it occurred to me that I rather liked the fabric inside out. Click on the picture to see what I mean.

Whereby resulted the Reverse Basic Ribbed Sock. Tweaked so that the wrong side of the ribbing shows on the outside of the sock. Works terrifically well with a yarn that has short bursts of colour.

Sizes
Women’s S (shoe size 5-7), Women’s M (shoe size 7½-9), Women’s L (shoe size 9½+), Men’s S (shoe size 6-9 ), Men’s L (shoe size 9½+)

Materials
400m/440yds sock yarn – this pattern works for any sock yarn with a 28-30 stitch gauge
-the black and white version was worked with two skeins of Shelridge Farm's Soft Touch Ultra sock yarn
-the orangey version was worked with a skein of Arequipa sock yarn
1 set of 2.5mm (US size 1/1.5) double-pointed needles

Gauge
32 stitches, unstretched, across 4 inches/10cm in K3 P1 rib with 2.5mm needles.

Method
Cuff:
Cast 56 (60, 64, 64, 68) stitches onto a single needle. Distribute stitches evenly across 3 needles. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 15 (15, 17.5, 20, 20) cm/6 (6, 7, 8, 8) inches of K3 P1 ribbing, as follows:
Round 1: *K3, p1; repeat from * to end of round. Repeat this for every round.
Yes, that's right, work the leg in k3 p1 ribbing. It's quicker for most knitters than p3 k1, and you'll turn it inside as you start to work the heel.

Turn Heel:
This portion is worked flat in plain stocking stitch.

Turn the sock inside out. You're going to start working in the other direction, so that the the ribbing shows at p3 k1 on the right side of the sock. You should be positioned so that the first st of the round is a knit st, followed by three purls.

Knit first 29 (29, 33, 33, 33) stitches. Put remaining 27 (31, 31, 31, 35) stitches onto a holder. Starting with a purl row, work 21 (21, 23, 23, 25) rows of stocking stitch, slipping the first stitch of every row. The right side is facing for next row.

RS: Knit 19 (19, 22, 22, 22) stitches, ssk, turn
WS: Slip 1, purl 9 (9, 11, 11, 11) stitches, p2tog, turn
RS: Slip 1, knit 9 (9, 11, 11, 11) stitches, ssk, turn

Repeat last two rows until all stitches have been worked. 11 (11, 13, 13, 13) stitches remain, and RS is facing for next row.

Re-establish Round and Create Gusset:
Knit all heel stitches. Using that same needle, pick up and knit 15 (15, 16, 16, 17) stitches along selvedge edge at side of heel, using slipped stitches as a guide. With a new needle, work in reverse rib pattern as established across the 27 (31, 31, 31, 35) stitches of instep – those stitches that you’d set aside on the stitch holder. Using another new needle, pick up and knit 15 (15, 16, 16, 17) stitches along selvedge edge at other side of heel, using slipped stitches as a guide. With that same needle, work 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) stitches from the first needle.

The beginning of the round is now at the centre of the heel. There should be 20 (20, 22, 22, 23) stitches on the first needle, the 27 (31, 31, 31, 35) stitches of the instep on the second, and 21 (21, 23, 23, 24) stiches on the third. Rearrange the stitches if you need to.

From here on in, the 27 (31, 31, 31, 35) instep stitches will be worked in the reverse rib pattern, and the gusset and sole will be worked in stocking stitch – that is, knitting every round.

Decrease Gusset:
Work a round even – keeping the instep stitches in pattern – twisting all picked-up stitches.

Work a decrease round as follows:
Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: Work all stitches in pattern.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.

Work an even round, keeping continuity of pattern.

Repeating these last two rounds until Needles 1 has 14 (14, 16, 16, 16) stitches and Needle 3 has 15 (15, 17, 17, 17) stitches. 56 (60, 64, 64, 68) stitches total on your needles.

Work until foot measures 6.5 (18, 19, 19, 21) cm/6.5 (7, 7.5, 7.5, 8.5) inches, or 6 cm/2.5 inches less than foot length. (Note that the finished sock should be a little shorter than the foot. This makes for a better fit.)

Shape Toe:
From here on in, you’ll work entirely in stocking stitch. Rearrange the stitches so that you’ve got 14 (15, 16, 16, 17) each on Needles 1 and 3, and 28 (30, 32, 32, 34) on Needle 2.

Work a decrease round, as follows:
Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1.
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.

Work 3 rounds even.
Work a decrease round followed by 2 even rounds, twice. [6 rounds total]
Work a decrease round followed by 1 even round, three times. [6 rounds total]
Work decrease rounds until 8 stitches remain.

To finish, cut yarn, draw through the final stitches and tighten. Weave in ends.

It's Research, Really

There's a block of Queen Street West, not far from where I live, that's an absolute killer. Heading west from the corner, it's as follows: a coffee shop, one of my favourite clothes shops in the entire world, a huge yarn shop, and then my hairdresser.

And if you stand at the corner and look north, there's a little ice cream shop that makes the best strawberry ice cream I've ever tasted.

There's also a terrific vintage clothes shop about 6 doors farther down.

Killer.

It means that a haircut typically costs me significantly more than just the price of the cut.

On the yarn front, I usually try to resist, as I'm not a stasher by nature... except, of course, for my terrible weakness for sock yarn.

I found this little goodie in the bottom of a basket in the bargain basement.... $4.80. There was only one 50gm ball in this colourway, which I know gives me enough yarn for a pair with contrasting heels, toes and cuffs.

I justified it to myself because, first of all, it's monochrome, and secondly, because I've never actually worked with a yarn that comes with its own little spool of reinforcing yarn. I love that it's dyed to match. So yeah, it's research.

On Socks of the Toe Up Variety

A reader (whose name, embarrassingly, I never caught) approached me at the K-W Knitter's Fair last weekend. (Hello!)

She mentioned that she'd learnt to knit top-down socks from me, from my Knitty article of way back...

and she wanted to now tackle toe-up socks.

How very timely. I have another Knitty article that answers just that question - "Socks 102". Well, actually, it answers a whole bunch of other questions as well, but here are the key points:

I'm fond of Amy Swenson's Universal Toe-Up Sock Formula... the girl thinks like me, of course I like it!

And you'll need to use a provisional cast on, for which you can find help here...

I differ from Amy in one significant way. It's all about foot shape. As explained in Socks 102, the problem I have with a standard toe-up sock is that the fit doesn't work for me. The standard construction assumes that the circumference of your heel is pretty close to the circumference of your foot. This just isn't true for me. If a toe-up sock fits my foot well, it's too tight around the ankle; and if it fits well around the heel it's too loose on the foot. A top-down sock doesn't have this problem, because there is a gusset -- a portion worked with more stitches around the heel.

So I added a gusset to the toe-up sock. All outlined in "Socks 102".. And if you want the backstory, read here and here...

Following Up On the Soxx Appeal

Black hole of knitting is done... thank goodness.... and I have to say, I'm happy with the results. It looked pretty awful pre-blocking -- very uneven, and sorta lumpy.

I ended up steam blocking the piece, and I was pleasantly surprised at the different it made. To be precise, I filled my iron with water, cranked it up to maximum, held it about an inch above the piece and pushed the "steam jet" button.

Lovely.

(Sad but true, I use my iron more in this way than actually putting it onto a fabric.)

The stitches evened out nicely, and the fabric looks significantly better.

A reader, AuntieAnn, posted a comment about her experience with the Soxx Appeal... she said that she had trouble getting a good fit because of the elastic. My first pointer is to work a little smaller than you would normally... if you're using my sock template, instead of calculating the cast-on stitches using ankle circumference less 2 cm, I'd subtract 3 cm. And I'd work a little shorter than you usually would. My foolproof technique for figuring out if the sock is long enough before the toe decrease... ?



Halfway through working the instep stitches (so that the sts are distributed across four needles), I try the thing on.

This works best, I find, because the sock will stretch as it needs to, to fit your foot, and you'll get a good sense of what length you need to accommodate the stretch. I used to start working the toe 2 inches/5 cm short of the full foot length, but I tend to start a cm or so earlier than that now. A non-stretch sock yarn naturally stretches out during the day with wear, and I found a sock that was precisely the right length in the morning was loose by the end of the day. A sock that has to stretch a little -- just a little -- in the morning remains a good fit at the end of the day.

(Very attentive readers will recognize this yarn as one of my purchases from this year's Knitter's Frolic. Shelridge Farms Soft Touch Ultra Fingering. Newsprint socks.)

Socks 102: Knitty Article

I'm honoured, once again, to be included in the pages of Knitty.

Socks 102 -- a discussion of advanced sock topics. Different types of toes and heels, notes on using other yarns, and a method for improving the fit of a toe-up sock with a short-row heel.

A Black Hole

Credit goes to Jennifer, who captured it perfectly.

I'm working one of those super-secret projects (i.e. something to be published somewhere), and it's using an interesting yarn.

Knit One Crochet Too's Soxx Appeal. It's definitely odd to work with. Not bad, just odd. It's got a great fibre mix for socks -- merino and nylon, and a magic 1% nylon.


I've worked a pair of socks in this yarn, and I liked it very much. There is a balance that needs to be struck in sock knitting, I find... you don't want the sock too tight, but equally, you want it a bit snug so that as the wool stretches out over the day it doesn't become too baggy. I've started recommending that socks be worked about 1 cm/1/2 inch shorter than foot length -- I find that works well. The added nylon in the Soxx Appeal helps out a lot -- the elastic helps the sock keep its shape through the day and ensures that they stay snug but not too tight.

But for reasons I won't (yet) share, I'm working something else in this yarn. Something that requires a largish section of plain old stocking stitch.

Here's the thing about stretchy fibres. When knitted up, they stretch more vertically than horizontally... which means, conversely, that the fabric compresses vertically, too. Which means that row gauge is a killer. I'm getting about 45 rows on 10cm/4 inches. 45 rows! And on a large swatch of stocking stitch, that's a lot of knitting.

As we've been making our way through the first season of Mad Men on DVD -- great knitting TV, and my god what I wouldn't do for an hour in their costume department -- I've been knitting away. And every now and then, I stop to measure my progress. And at 11-12 rows per inch, it seems like it takes forever to hit that magical next inch... forever. There's times when I've measured, to see no progress at all.

It's like a black hole of knitting.

A colourful and comfy black hole, but a black hole nonetheless.

All Alpaca, All the Time

I've been lucky enough recently to get my hands on some new alpaca yarns, direct from Peru.

TimiQuipa is importing some truly lovely sportweight alpaca yarn, and I've worked up three designs for them.

A baby cardigan...


and two lace designs....

These samples will be on display and the yarns and patterns will be available at the Creative Yarns' booth at the KW Knitters Fair next week. Stop by and say hello to Saul and Simona if you're there. They're lovely people, withe a lovely product.

The yarn is wonderful -- comes a great range of colours -- some of them undyed, and is priced very well.

Their yarns are also available at the following stores across Ontario:
Creative Yarns
Georgetown Yarn and Crafts
Grand River Yarns
JanKnit's Studio
Kismet Wool Shop
Knitters Attic
Linda's Craftique
London Yarns
PickUpSticks
Riverside Yarns
Rose's Fine Yarns
Ruti's Needlebed
SheepStrings
Spun Fibre Arts
The Purple Sock
The Stitch Niche
The Wool Shop
The Yarn Boutique
Whitevale Craftworks

Bits and Bobs

In a comment to my previous post, Marilyn tells a terrific story about flying with knitting shortly after 9/11... go read it!

I've ordered the Knit Picks Harmony nickel-plated sock needles. I've been working a lot of cabled socks of late, and have been struggling with the needles. For cable and fancy stitches, you need a good solid pointy point, and the points of my bamboo dpns were wearing too much. I love the points on the Harmony wood ones, but it occurred to me - in a smack-to-the-forehead sort of way - that an even better solution might be to try metal needles again. I haven't used metal sock needles in years. This is going to be an interesting experiment. I ordered the shorter ones -- I always struggled with the 8" length.

And look! A finished object!


It's a scarf! A crocheted scarf.


As you can see in the first photo, it's got a bit of a curve to it, the foundation chain being too tight, but other than that I'm pretty pleased with it.

My first-ever finished crochet project. It's a single ball of Needful Yarn's Joy, worked in double crochet. The square at one end is, IMHO, an elegant solution to the problem of not knowing how much scarf I'd be able to get out of the yarn. I worked a long narrow piece lengthways, and then when I was close to the end of the ball, I started working rows on the short end. I used the entire ball up, and have a decent length scarf out of 75m of yarn.

Now perhaps I can tackle a Zombie or two.

Reader Mail: About Needles for Travel

"Cape Cod Momma" asks about whether Addi Turbos are accepted on planes.

In my experience, you are ultimately at the mercy of the people manning the security checkpoints... I've successfully taken a metal circular on a couple of flights, but it was never one of my good ones.

I'd personally leave the Addis at home and take bamboos, just to be on the safe side.

Looks like KnitPicks has bamboo circulars in the length you're looking for...

happy travels!

A Less Than Ideal Travel Project

It's rare I see someone else knitting when I fly, let alone other types of crafting...

There was a woman crocheting on the flight yesterday.

She was crocheting an afghan. With one of those giant "super saver" balls of yarn.

Needless to say, she was having a little trouble stuffing her carry-on bag into the overhead bin...

Ideal Travel Knitting, or Not

I'm on the road. Been to the Pacific Northwest for a few days...

lots of time in airports, and on planes, which is all great for knitting.

Bamboo needles, naturally, and I've been working on a lace design -- one of my own -- in TimiQuipa alpaca.

It's beautiful yarn, an absolute joy to work with, and I love the soft blue colour.

Here's the problem... I finished it up lace night and I have no way to block it. And it's driving me insane. I want to see how it looks, how big it's going to be.

I did block the swatch, so I have some sense -- but I'm an impatient sort, and I want to see what it will become!

At least if I knit socks on the road I can wear them when they're done. With lace, I'm stuck with a crumpled heap of yarn that looks like nothing at all....

Much interesting discussion

My last post spurred a lot of interesting discussion, and a very good comment from Christine.

She's right. The eww factor is pretty irrational... . After all, sheep are much dirtier and smellier than your average dog.

(Ok, perhaps a certain cottage-going Goldendoodle of my acquaintance is the exception here, but she does get bathed regularly...)

Any yarn spun from dog hair is washed and treated exactly as sheep wool is, so that any leftover dander or scent or dogginess is entirely removed.

So what's the hang up?

It is a lovely way to make a canine keepsake, if you will. How many dog owners wish they could preserve something of a beloved family pet?

Interesting...

Wool of the Dog?

Funny, I'd just been looking at this book last weekend, and chuckling to myself (and others within earshot) about the table of dog breeds in the back, and the comments on the suitability of various breeds' hair for spinning and knitting.

And now there's this. A whole set of portraits of people wearing their dog hair sweaters, posed with the dog(s) who provided the hair.



As a knitter and a lover of big fuzzy dogs, I feel hugely conflicted about this.

I mean, it's nice to have a use for all the hair that accumulates all over your furniture and floor...

but on the other hand... eww.

ANOTHER One?

You've seen this design before.

A few times.

I've done it again.

Another of my One Skein Luxury Kerchief, this time in a rather lovely new baby alpaca yarn I've been working with, called TimiQuipa.

Look for it at the Kitchener Waterloo Knitter's Fair.

It's nice stuff... great hand, terrific yardage (150m) at an unbelievable price, and I love the creamy natural white.

Grape and Grain?

I'm currently reading Elizabeth Zimmerman's "Knitter's Almanac". (On this page.)

It's no secret I'm not a crocheter, but I've recently been inspired to try again. By this.


Specifically, this.


(Yes, I love him and his Beloved Shaun of the Dead that much. ;-) )

So I've been muddling through, with the help of The Happy Hooker. Great book.

And have been messing with a ball of leftovers, which may or may not turn into a scarf.


So I laughed out loud when I read EZ's proclamations on crochet.

She confesses she's not very good at it, and doesn't really like it... and particularly doesn't like the look of crocheted borders on knitted sweaters...

"Once I was told that one should not mix the grape and the grain, in that case, knitting and crochet..."

that might explain why I always feel quite dreadful the morning after a bout of crochet...

On Yarn Usage & Scales

There I was, before I started knitting the Baby Surprise Jacket, fretting about the yarn requirements.

I eventually decided to leave myself a bit of breathing room, and combine two leftover colours. Which resulted, as you can see, in a rather nice stripey thing.

Problem is, I have no idea how much yarn I used. None at all. I used bits and pieces of partial balls, with some bits and pieces left over.

The answer is to weigh the jacket. I know how many meters are in 50gm of the yarn, so if I know how much it weighs, then I know how much yarn I used. Easy.

Problem is, you need a very accurate scale for this. One that measures to the gram. The sort of scale that drug dealers might use.

And I need one.

In the past, I've been known to smuggle balls of yarn and finished knitted objects into the mailroom at the office at the day job... but you do get very strange looks when you get caught with a bag full of socks, standing in front of the postage machine....

Santa?

Baby Surprise Jacket: Finished!

The surprise being that this odd blob...


turns into a sweater if you fold it the right way.

Very clever.
I made a point of changing colours at all the points where the pattern changed -- where you decrease for the sleeve cuff, where you change from decreases to increases on the body, where you work the the increase for the back, where you decrease for the neck, and for the buttonband.

I love how the colours break on the front. And it's a rather amusing puzzle to hand it to a knitter and watch them try to fold it the right way.

I think I've spent more time folding it than actually knitting it...

FO: Leaf Lace Shawl

Finished!

I was swatching for this a while ago, and it's been quietly percolating away in the background...

The Leaf Lace Shawl.

The design was inspired by the traditional seaman's scarves, patterned at both ends, with a relatively plain centre. See this book for more information on these types of scarves.

It's made with two skeins of Hopeful Farm's 2 ply fingering weight yarn, one of my most favourite yarns in the word. It's undyed, and it's a truly wonderful espresso colour, almost black, but with more chocolately depth.

The yarn is fairly unprocesssed, and somewhat varied in texture, so I wanted larger scale lace patterning. The Long Leaf lace comes thanks to Barbara Walker, and the lace rib used for the centre is an old standard. I think the result is modern, unfussy and very pleasing.

The pattern will be available for sale at the KW Knitter's Fair, directly from Hopeful Farm, and through me. Drop me a line if you're interested.

More Progress on BSJ; Olympic Update

I feel like the Chinese government (no politically incorrect or tasteless joke intended).... It's just that I've found myself in a mad dash to finish something before the Olympics start.

The Baby Surprise Jacket

It's going well enough, but I'm finding it -- gasp -- sort of boring to knit. Turns out that large swatches of garter stitch aren't the thrill for me that they are for some people. I think the problem is that it's not entirely mindless -- you do need to keep track of which row you're on to work various increases or decreases, and I was constantly checking my progress, to figure out the colour changes.

There's one final step left -- the lower/front edging and buttonholes. At the rate I'm knitting, it's probably about an hour's worth of work.

As to the Olympics... my trainer and I are sad to announce that I have been forced to withdraw. I've got some commissioned work -- a hat and mitten set, some technical editing, and a design that's been accepted for a book. The deadlines for all three are coming up fast, so they will be my focus for the next little while.

I will, however, finish the BSJ. I can't promise I'll enjoy it, but I will finish it.

Progress on BSJ

EZ is right. It looks like nothing when you're working on it.

Step 1 complete -- all the decreases done.

Step 2 complete -- the first phase of increases, to the neck shaping.

I'm changing colours at the end of each major phase. The first green section goes until you increase at the cuff. Then it's pink for the decrease section, and green for the first increase section.

Looked at it another way, the first section creates a u-shaped piece of knitting with decreases... and the increases are creating a second u-shape, attached to the first. See the green section folded on top of the pink.

Interesting, but still doesn't look like anything.

But fold it appropriately, you get something which actually looks like a sweater.

Nifty!