And read a reminiscence about the dark days of the 1990s, when I first started to seriously knit...
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Over at Knittyblog...
And read a reminiscence about the dark days of the 1990s, when I first started to seriously knit...
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Silly things I've knitted, #748 in a series: a bonnet for a pepper grinder.
A 1980s vintage pepper grinder, no less.
A couple of years ago I published a pattern for a baby bonnet with ears, based on a classic design.
I teach a class on this pattern. As is my way, I designed a mini version that can be quickly knitted so we can get all the way through it in a reasonable amount of time in class, and I can make sure to cover all the required skills.
Hence, the mini baby bonnet. Which PERFECTLY and rather creepily fits my terrible tacky pepper grinder. (Note to self: buy a new one.)
Monday, February 20, 2012
On Gauge Math: Even a Quarter of a Stitch Matters
I was teaching a knitting class the other day when much to the surprise of my students, a math class broke out.
A student who will shall call G. is working on a sweater. Because G. is a sensible sort (who has known me long enough to know I would tell her off if she didn't...) she swatched.
The gauge required is 8 sts/4 inches. Before she measured, G. did something we all would do: she divided. 8 sts for 4 inches - that's 2 sts an inch.
So G. measured her swatch and saw 2 stitches per inch. She was good to go! She had needles, yarn, and a plan for a fabulous quick knit jacket for early spring!
Now, being a sensible sort, G. decided to consult me to see if I agreed with her results. And it was a big horrible no.
I measured 4 inches, carefully counted the stitches, and got 9 stitches in 4 inches. 9 stitches in 4 inches is definitely not 8 stitches. 9 stitches in 4 inches is 2.25 stitches an inch; 8 stitches in 4 inches is 2 stitches an inch. Now, the difference is only a measly quarter of a stitch. G. had measured 1 inch, and in the fuzzy, fluffy yarn G is using, that quarter of a stitch over an inch was pretty hard to see.... it's a mistake we might all make, I don't blame her one bit.
G. is a lovely person, and she would never say so, but I had the distinct sense that she felt I was making a mountain out of a molehill: she really couldn't see why I was so worried about that quarter of a stitch.
But here's the problem: what seems like a rounding error - a tiny little fraction of a stitch - can make a HUGE difference. Enormous. Ludicrous, even.
The finished size of the garment is 44 inches, and you cast on 88 stitches for the full body circumference. 88 sts at 2 sts per inch = 88/2=44. Perfect.
But at 9 stitches per 4 inches... 88 sts at 2.25 sts per inch =88/2.25 = 39.1 inches around.
Yes, that's right. A quarter of a stitch difference makes for a nearly 5 inch difference in the finish garment.
It turns out that your parents were right - math does matter!
A student who will shall call G. is working on a sweater. Because G. is a sensible sort (who has known me long enough to know I would tell her off if she didn't...) she swatched.
The gauge required is 8 sts/4 inches. Before she measured, G. did something we all would do: she divided. 8 sts for 4 inches - that's 2 sts an inch.
So G. measured her swatch and saw 2 stitches per inch. She was good to go! She had needles, yarn, and a plan for a fabulous quick knit jacket for early spring!
I measured 4 inches, carefully counted the stitches, and got 9 stitches in 4 inches. 9 stitches in 4 inches is definitely not 8 stitches. 9 stitches in 4 inches is 2.25 stitches an inch; 8 stitches in 4 inches is 2 stitches an inch. Now, the difference is only a measly quarter of a stitch. G. had measured 1 inch, and in the fuzzy, fluffy yarn G is using, that quarter of a stitch over an inch was pretty hard to see.... it's a mistake we might all make, I don't blame her one bit.
G. is a lovely person, and she would never say so, but I had the distinct sense that she felt I was making a mountain out of a molehill: she really couldn't see why I was so worried about that quarter of a stitch.
But here's the problem: what seems like a rounding error - a tiny little fraction of a stitch - can make a HUGE difference. Enormous. Ludicrous, even.
The finished size of the garment is 44 inches, and you cast on 88 stitches for the full body circumference. 88 sts at 2 sts per inch = 88/2=44. Perfect.
But at 9 stitches per 4 inches... 88 sts at 2.25 sts per inch =88/2.25 = 39.1 inches around.
Yes, that's right. A quarter of a stitch difference makes for a nearly 5 inch difference in the finish garment.
It turns out that your parents were right - math does matter!
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Crochet Sock Yarn Blanket: The Pattern
After posting pictures of my progress with the Sock Yarn Blanket, I've been asked about the pattern.
The good news about this is you only need a basic knowledge of crochet to work it. Perhaps get an expert friend to start it, but the rest you can do on your own, I promise. As long as you know how to chain and work a double crochet, you'll be good. There are excellent crochet tutorials on StitchDiva's site. If you're completely new to crochet, start there with the chain stitch and double crochet.
For my blanket, I used sock yarn (I may have mentioned that) and a 3.5mm/E-4 crochet hook. But you can use anything. Just make sure the yarns being used are all roughly the same weight, and use a crochet hook a size or two larger than you would knitting needles for that yarn.
Using my non-professional crochet pattern writing skills, here's the Granny Square Pattern/Tutorial:
START: Chain 6.
Join the chain into a round with a slip stitch.
FIRST TIER: [Double crochet three times into the hole of the round. Chain 2.] 4 times. Join to the start of the round with a slip stitch.
This gives you four groups of three double crochets around the round, with holes in between. These holes are the corners:
SECOND TIER: Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner. (The chain 2 counts as the first double crochet to make a group of three. You're always working in groups of three double crochets.)
[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.] 3 times.
Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
Again, you have four corners, and then each side has a gap between the groups of double crochets:
As you work a tier, you will add two more gaps on each side, between the corners.
THIRD TIER: Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner.
[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.] 3 times.
You should be at the final side now.
Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
CONTINUING: From here, every tier is the same...
Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner.
Work across the sides as follows:
*[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1.] Repeat until only the 'corner gap' remains.
Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.]
Work from * twice more.
Work across the final side: [Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1.] Repeat until only the corner gap remains.
Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
And then keep going. And going. And going. Until the blanket is big enough, or you're out of sock yarn leftovers. (Ha!)
An excellent more detailed Granny Square Tutorial can be found on Ravelry, here.
The good news about this is you only need a basic knowledge of crochet to work it. Perhaps get an expert friend to start it, but the rest you can do on your own, I promise. As long as you know how to chain and work a double crochet, you'll be good. There are excellent crochet tutorials on StitchDiva's site. If you're completely new to crochet, start there with the chain stitch and double crochet.
For my blanket, I used sock yarn (I may have mentioned that) and a 3.5mm/E-4 crochet hook. But you can use anything. Just make sure the yarns being used are all roughly the same weight, and use a crochet hook a size or two larger than you would knitting needles for that yarn.
Using my non-professional crochet pattern writing skills, here's the Granny Square Pattern/Tutorial:
START: Chain 6.
Join the chain into a round with a slip stitch.
FIRST TIER: [Double crochet three times into the hole of the round. Chain 2.] 4 times. Join to the start of the round with a slip stitch.
This gives you four groups of three double crochets around the round, with holes in between. These holes are the corners:
SECOND TIER: Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner. (The chain 2 counts as the first double crochet to make a group of three. You're always working in groups of three double crochets.)
[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.] 3 times.
Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
Again, you have four corners, and then each side has a gap between the groups of double crochets:
As you work a tier, you will add two more gaps on each side, between the corners.
THIRD TIER: Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner.
[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.] 3 times.
You should be at the final side now.
Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
CONTINUING: From here, every tier is the same...
Chain 2. Double crochet twice into the chain space in the row below just at the foot of that little chain. This is the first corner.
Work across the sides as follows:
*[Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1.] Repeat until only the 'corner gap' remains.
Double crochet three times into the corner 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 2 (for the corner). Double crochet three times again into the corner 'gap' of the previous round.]
Work from * twice more.
Work across the final side: [Chain 1. Double crochet three times into the 'gap' of the previous round. Chain 1.] Repeat until only the corner gap remains.
Double crochet three times into the final corner 'gap' of the previous round. Use a slip stitch to join this to the top of the double crochet group where you started the round.
And then keep going. And going. And going. Until the blanket is big enough, or you're out of sock yarn leftovers. (Ha!)
An excellent more detailed Granny Square Tutorial can be found on Ravelry, here.
Matching one's hair to one's shawl
This is the Herringbone Shawl for which I'm teaching an class at Shall We Knit, modelled by the fab and stylish boss-lady Karen. I do love Karen and her ever-changing hair colours. If I lived closer, I think I might go visit her hairdresser...
She's worked it in Kauni, and my god it looks great. I think I might know what to do with that ball or Rainbow Kauni that's been marinating in my stash.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Podcast and Interview
I was also interviewed by the lovely Robin Hunter for her blog, about the process of writing a book.
Thursday, February 09, 2012
Upcoming Teaching & Events
Each year, the Guild has a theme... this year it's all about a New Take on Old Traditions. I'm speaking about how the internet has changed knitting.
This blog being a marvellous example of that...
I'm teaching my 2 hour Continental Knitting bootcamp. Become a faster knitter! Get ready for stranded colourwork! Rest your aching wrists! This is the class in which I demonstrate the legendary Norwegian purl... learn to purl without moving your yarn to the front...
Saturday afternoon it's the 3-hour Knitter's Toolkit, in which I answer all those pesky questions that go answered... why are there so many "make 1" increases, and which one should you be using? What's the best all-purpose cast on? How do you achieve that elusive loose cast off? And I'll discuss swatching and blocking and joining yarn. Come with your tricky questions!
Sunday it's all about skill builders:
Saturday, February 04, 2012
The Spiral Shawl of Insanity and Blindness; the Wonder of Blocking, Part 2
Way back in August of last year, I started a shawl project. The shawl of insanity and blindness, as my friends called it.
I'd fallen in love with the Spiral Shawl in Meg Swansen's "A Gathering of Lace" the moment I laid eyes on it. When I needed a travel project last summer, it seemed like just the thing.
And naturally, because I'm crazy, I chose a black yarn. Malabrigo Sock, specifically. I may be crazy, but I'm not insane... if I'm knitting a lace project in black, I figured I'd give myself a slight break and not use a laceweight.
Malabrigo Sock is one of my favourite lace yarns: the colours are gorgeous, it's soft and drapey, and it's smooth and easy to work with. (Less keen on it for socks, I'll be honest: the softness and drapey-ness that make it so good for lace make it too fragile for socks.)
Bets were taken on which I'd lose first: my eyesight, or my sanity. I had nearly 900 yards of sock yarn in black, and I was proposing an enormous lace project.
I worked on the shawl on and off throughout the fall, as travel permitted: it went with me to the UK, I took it to Rhinebeck, and it spent a fair bit of time travelling around Toronto with me.
I tried not to set myself a deadline, because I knew it was going to take a while... as it got bigger, the rounds got longer, and by the time October arrived, each round was taking me about 15 minutes. And that was only about half the size I wanted.
But I kept working on it, between other projects. Trying not to count, trying not to set expectations about when it would be done.
And then one day, it was done... about one and three quarter skeins of the yarn, and a huge crumpled mess!
Well, not that huge, actually. I'd done some math (as is my way), and I knew that I'd had to stop where I did to make the edging pattern work out evenly... but unblocked it was about 36 inches in diameter.
And it went from a crumpled 36 inches in diameter to 54 inches! And it's fabulous.
Keen eyes will notice that it's not perfectly round - I had a heck of a time with that, so one side is a bit wonky. Even keener eyes will notice a few dark spots - these are where I made corrections to mistakes - specifically picking up extra stitches where I missed yarnovers, and so the fabric looks darker because I've got an area of tighter stitches.
But I love it to bits, and these imperfections aren't noticeable in the final project.
.
I'd fallen in love with the Spiral Shawl in Meg Swansen's "A Gathering of Lace" the moment I laid eyes on it. When I needed a travel project last summer, it seemed like just the thing.
Malabrigo Sock is one of my favourite lace yarns: the colours are gorgeous, it's soft and drapey, and it's smooth and easy to work with. (Less keen on it for socks, I'll be honest: the softness and drapey-ness that make it so good for lace make it too fragile for socks.)
Bets were taken on which I'd lose first: my eyesight, or my sanity. I had nearly 900 yards of sock yarn in black, and I was proposing an enormous lace project.
I worked on the shawl on and off throughout the fall, as travel permitted: it went with me to the UK, I took it to Rhinebeck, and it spent a fair bit of time travelling around Toronto with me.
I tried not to set myself a deadline, because I knew it was going to take a while... as it got bigger, the rounds got longer, and by the time October arrived, each round was taking me about 15 minutes. And that was only about half the size I wanted.
But I kept working on it, between other projects. Trying not to count, trying not to set expectations about when it would be done.
And then one day, it was done... about one and three quarter skeins of the yarn, and a huge crumpled mess!
Well, not that huge, actually. I'd done some math (as is my way), and I knew that I'd had to stop where I did to make the edging pattern work out evenly... but unblocked it was about 36 inches in diameter.
And then I blocked it. It was a time-consuming thing... after a long soak and a quick roll in a towel to get most of the water out, I had to pin out every one of the edge points, nearly 100 of them. (And then keep the dog off it, but that's a separate issue...)
And it went from a crumpled 36 inches in diameter to 54 inches! And it's fabulous.
Keen eyes will notice that it's not perfectly round - I had a heck of a time with that, so one side is a bit wonky. Even keener eyes will notice a few dark spots - these are where I made corrections to mistakes - specifically picking up extra stitches where I missed yarnovers, and so the fabric looks darker because I've got an area of tighter stitches.
But I love it to bits, and these imperfections aren't noticeable in the final project.
I am pleased to report to the doubters that I finished it within 6 months of start, and my sanity remained intact. But I did recently have to get new glasses...
.
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