Sock Summit Day 2: Teaching & Bacon

Honoured to be here.


You know, here, in Portland, at Sock Summit.


Portland is a town that loves bacon. They have bacon donuts, bacon ice cream and bacon yarn!


So far, only one skein of yarn purchased - a jaunty orange and black stripy number from The Amy Lee Show.



How absolutely perfectly me is this? Cannot wait to knit it!

Sock Summit Day 1: Begin As You Mean to Go On

Oh yeah, and there's this:

Because Size Matters: Foot Size Survey

I've been talking a lot about sock sizing of late.

When sizing socks, foot circumference is the key measurement. For the vast majority of sock designs, the length of the foot is controlled simply by working fewer or more rounds in that section- totally independent of the number of stitches you cast on.

When sizing shoes, foot length is the primary measurement. This means that all of the information out there in the world about foot size is focused on foot length.

Since foot length is remarkably unrelated to foot circumference - small feet can be wide, long feet can be narrow - telling me your shoe size tells me very little about how big your socks should be. A lot of the time, when designers are creating socks, we're guessing about how they should be sized.

With help from my friends and collaborators at Sock Summit, Knitty and Cooperative Press, I'm trying to change this. I'm launching a foot size survey, and I'm hoping you can help us out.

Send email to footsurvey@wisehildaknits.com with the following info:

• Your shoe size: US or European size & gender (e.g. US Women’s size 8)
• Your foot length
• Ankle circumference around the narrowest part of your ankle
• Foot circumference around the ball of your foot
• Circumference around your foot at your ankle
• Diagonal measurement around your heel, from the base of your heel up over the top of your foot
• Circumference of your calf six inches (15cm) up from the ground

And if you can talk your friends and family into letting you measure their feet, we’d love that info too.

We'll crunch the data and come up with a set of measurements that we will publish here, through knittyblog.com and the Cooperative Press website, for all sock designers to use.

Thank you! Your reward for participation will be better sized sock patterns for everyone - and our eternal gratitude, of course!

On Matters of Size: Flash Your Stash

I was planning and packing for the Sock Summit trip yesterday. The key consideration for any knitter when planning a trip is what knitting to take.

And for Sock Summit, that's doubly important - sure, it's gotta be socks, but it's gotta be cool socks. Cool yarn, and a cool project.I knew that I needed a plain and simple stocking stitch sock, for times when I'd be chatting. That choice was easy - the coolest yarn in my stash is a skein of Wollmeise in Birkenrinde (birch bark) that was purchased at the actual Wollmeise shop (oooh!) by a student of mine. (Thanks Andrea, if you're reading!)


But I also wanted an interesting sock project to show off my chops. I had a stitch pattern in mind, but wasn't sure about the yarn. So I went digging in the stash.

It's fun to rummage through one's own stash once in a while, to remind yourself of what goodies you have. And because I am going to Sock Summit, I figured it was a good idea to see what was what, so I knew what I didn't need to buy... and to see if there was anything I wanted to buy more of.

Now, I've already confessed in public that I keep a spreadsheet with a stash inventory, but I knew that the sock yarn section of inventory had got a little out of date. I therefore took the opportunity to pull it all out, admire it, and list it. And count.

And I 'fessed up on Twitter: not including WIPs and leftovers, I have 43 pairs' worth of socks in yarn.

This caused a little storm on Twitter among some of my very good knitting friends, necessitating the use of the hashtag "#flashusyourstash", naturally.

And so my friends, they also counted. Now, these ladies are all excellent knitters, and keen sock knitters, specifically, and each of them has a close and long-standing relationship with a LYS that has a rather terrific selection of sock yarn.

What I learnt from this exercise is that, apparently, I am a rank amateur when it comes to stashing sock yarn. No-one else had a number less than 100.

I have some serious catching up to do. Hey... I know just where I can get that problem taken care of.

Sock Summit 2011, here I come!

On Sock Sizing, Part I: Choosing Which Size to Knit

I've had some terrific feedback in response to my last few posts - thanks! I'm glad people are finding the training socks helpful.

I promised that I would also tackle the topic of sock sizing... I'm going to divide this up into two: sizing as it relates existing sock patterns, and how to customize.

This will not be news to people who know me well, or have had a sock knitting class with me, but it's true: I have small feet. I wear a US women's size 6 shoe. Now, these feet of mine aren't extremely small; I can still easily find shoes to fit, but they are small enough that sock sizing becomes an issue.

Also well-known about me and just as true: I get very cranky about sock patterns that come in one-size-fits-all. Because it's just not true. One size does not fit all. I've got narrow size 6 feet; a good friend of mine has wide size 11 feet. The idea that the same sock would fit us both equally well is silly: there's a good 20% different in both foot length and circumference between my feet and my friend's. Yes, that's right: 20%. Put into terms that are easy to visualize, that's like expecting the same swimsuit to fit a size 4 and a size 12 equally well. Sure, the fabric stretches, but it won't be comfortable.

So when knitters are asking me for sock pattern recommendations, I tend to point them to sock patterns that come in multiple sizes.

And how to choose which sock size to knit? The first socks I knitted were all too big for me - by the end of the day they had stretched out and would fall off.

The thing is that wool and wool-based sock yarns (which most of them are) have natural elasticity (up to 25% or even more, depending on the breed of sheep!), and with the heat and moisture of your feet, your socks stretch out during the day. To ensure they stay up and on, they need to be made with negative ease. That is, the socks should be smaller than you - about 10 to 15%. Your socks should start the day a little tight - not circulation-constrictingly tight, but snug - so that when they stretch out, they stay on. Think about your commercially-bought socks - they all stretch to fit.

So when choosing a sock pattern, if you're choosing a pattern sized by finished measurements (which I think is a very helpful idea, are you listening, designers?), choose a size that's about 10-15% smaller than your actual ankle/foot circumference. For an adult sock, that's about an inch/2.5cm smaller.

And the same thing applies to foot length, too... I always knit my socks about a quarter to half an inch (a cm) shorter than foot length.

And after a long day of wearing socks, they're still comfortable and they stay on when I take my boots off!

Toe-Up vs. Top-Down Socks: Why Two?, Which First?, Which is Better?

In follow up to my last two posts, the toe-up and the top-down training socks, I thought I'd tackle some questions I get asked often.

Of the two methods for knitting socks, top-down vs. toe up: Which should I do first?Which is easier? Which is better?

Which should I do first? I like to recommend new sock knitters start with a top-down sock, for the simple reason that the start is easier.

Which is easier? Hmmm... a tough one to answer. They both have their tricky bits: the toe of a toe-up sock can be fiddly, and the gusset pickup can be challenging for a top-down sock. In either case, don't believe what the muggles says - the heel is not the hardest part, in either case! As long as you have the right number of stitches, and you follow the instructions precisely, the heel is easy! Honestly, they are about equivalent in overall difficulty level.

Which is better? The easy answer to this is, simply, whichever one you like knitting best. They both have their pros and cons, and their defenders and detractors.

TOE UP

Reasons to be excited:

If you're worried about running out of yarn, working toe-up is the answer. As long as you've got enough yarn to get past the heel, you can just work the leg until you run out. Divide up the yarn evenly into two balls, and you can use up every last yard of each.

Things to be aware of:

Toe-up socks demand special cast-ons and cast offs. None of them are difficult, but make sure that you have access to your favourite resources (books or the internet) as you work. That is, don't do what I did, and attempt to knit your first toe-up sock on a 5 hour flight without any reference books.

There are two types of toe-up heels: with and without a gusset. A gusseted sock tends to fit most feet better, because it adds fabric around the arch of your foot. A non-gusseted sock fits best on a foot with a flatter arch. I use a gusset in my toe-up socks, as does the goddess mother of the toe-up sock, Wendy D. Johnson. I would recommend you look for toe-up sock patterns that do have a gusset.

TOP DOWN

Reasons to be excited:

Top-down is the "traditional" and therefore more common way to knit socks, and there are more top-down sock patterns out there. (This is changing over time, but many of the masters - Ann Budd, Nancy Bush, Cookie A., Hunter Hammersen - design top-down.)

I've published a lot of very cool top-down sock patterns... :-)

Things to be aware of:

You have to pick up stitches. This terrifies some people. Again, it's not difficult, but make sure you have reference material handy if you are uncertain about how to do it.

You do need a stretchy cast-on. Long tail works brilliantly.

ON THE QUESTION OF FITTING

This is a bigger discussion. Some sock knitters feel that it's easier to custom-fit a toe-up sock. I'll address this in a later post.

REGARDLESS....

No matter which you do first, I highly recommend you try both constructions to see which you enjoy, and to see which fits you best.

NEXT STEPS
Once you've tried the top-down training sock, consider my Basic Ribbed Sock pattern - free from Ravelry: download now. It's designed to be very accessible to newer sock knitters.

And once you've got the hang of the toe-up training sock, try Deb Barnhill's Back to Basics toe-up pattern from Knitty, here. It's terrific, well-written, and very accessible.

And re: whether to knit socks on DPNs, magic loop or two circulars: work with what you know! I don't recommend trying to learn a new type of needle setup at the same time as you're trying to learn sock knitting.

Once you're comfortable with socks, then experiment with different needle configurations to see which you like best.

And then once you've figured that out, then try two at once.

And now, the Toe-Up Training Sock

Fancy going the other way?

The Toe-Up Training Sock. An ideal way to try toe-up sock knitting.

Version for DPNs: download now

Version for Magic Loop/2 Circulars: download now

As with the top-down version, this is designed to be a one-evening knit, and takes you through the entire process of knitting a toe-up sock, without driving yourself mad with teeny-tiny needles and teeny-tiny yarn. Uses a scrap of worsted weight and 4.5mm needles of your choice.

New & Improved Training Sock Pattern: Top-Down, for DPNs & Magic Loop/2 Circulars

Long ago, I published an article on Knitty, designed to be an introduction to the whys and wherefores of Sock Knitting.

In the article, I included my Training Sock pattern.

I've been using this pattern for years, as a quick and easy way to learn about sock knitting. It's designed to be a one-evening knit, and takes you through the entire process of knitting a top-down sock, without driving yourself mad with teeny-tiny needles and teeny-tiny yarn.

The pattern itself hasn't changed, but I've updated the instructions recently. In particular, I'm becoming fairly insistent of late that sock patterns should be written to support whichever needle configuration the knitter prefers: dpns, magic loop or two circulars.

With that in mind, I've got two versions of the new and improved Top-Down Training Sock Pattern, one for DPNs and one for Magic Loop and 2 circulars. PDFs available for free download from Ravelry. If you want to learn how to knit a top-down sock, start there!

DPNs version: download now.

Magic Loop version: download now.

(Toe-up Training Sock Pattern to follow.)

Any Which Way But Loose?

Because I knit socks any which way I can...

I'm knitting a lot of socks at the moment - even more so than usual - because I'm prepping for my Sock Summit classes.

What's fun about this picture is that it shows that I'm willing to knit socks in a variety of ways: top-down and toe-up, on dpns, 2 circs, magic loop and a teeny-tiny circular needle.


In the picture, from the top:
-2 at a time, top down on two circs, in Briggs & Little Tuffy. The colours aren't sexy, and it's not the softest stuff in the sock drawer, but these will be just the ticket come February, in my boots. I'm using a bamboo and a metal circ so I can easily tell them apart. I cast them on a while ago, and am making slow progress as they're an excellent demo in my Two Socks at the Same Time (the easy way) class. They are 3.5mm needles, both very old, but I think one is a Clover and the other is likely an Aero.

Middle row, on the left:
-Colinette Jitterbug, top down, on my beloved 2.5mm 6 inch Signature needles. Of the four, this is my favourite needle configuration, and these are my favourite needles. The yarn is a tightly twisted 100% merino with lots of bounce. The stripes are very effective, I think.

Middle row, on the right:
Koigu KPPM in plain old black, top down, for Project Black Sock, on a 2.5mm 8 inch circular Addi needle. They don't see to be easy to find, but they are worth trying out, these tiny circs. No ladders at all! They take a bit of practice - I found I had to adjust my hand position to hold the needle without cramping - but they are really rather amazing for the autopilotiest of autopilot socks.

And in the bottom row:
A toe up on Knit Picks 32 inch 2.5mm metal circular for magic looping. A test of my adjusted toe-up sock template (more on that later). The yarn is some discontinued Online in the "Butterfly" series - a bargain basement find!

The amazing thing is that this isn't all of the sock projects I have on the go. There are five right there.

In addition, I have on the go two sets of my one-sock-inside-the-other, a plain black sock in Regia, and another of the black Koigu socks.

That's eleven. 11 socks on the needles right now. I mean, I do have an excuse, but this does still seem fairly extreme.

I know it's not a contest, but...

Fastest ever Knitty-publication-to-FO project for me - and for many others, I think. Knitty went live yesterday, I sewed the button on this morning.

Woo hoo!

I am loving the Pretty Twisted Cuff - a very simple and clever way to use up sock yarn bits, and to showcase a brilliant button.

The yarn is Koigu, in something tangeriney, and the button was a gift from Kara, purchased at Courage My Love in Toronto.

This makes me very happy.

Too Hot For Wool? Try Wire! Free Pattern!

Like many knitters, I also dabble in other crafts. I'd done some beading a few years ago, and still had tools and beads kicking around.

And then I tripped over the Annie Modesitt book, Twist & Loop.

How could I not? Knitting with wire is a marvellous challenge - it's knitting, alright, but it's so very different in execution and results. The pieces are small, and can be knitted in less than an hour. And it's so very sculptural, so structural.


The physical side of it is quite challenging, too. You have to change your expectations about how it feels to knit. You have to go more slowly, and more deliberately. And you definitely have to change your expectations about how the fabric looks - not only is it stiff, it's also very very untidy.

However, if you've got some beads and Artistic Wire or 24-30 gauge beading wire kicking around, and some needles you're willing to sacrifice (it tends to chew them up), then you should definitely give it a go. So much fun!

KNITTED WIRE BRACELET
Materials
• 15 yds 24 gauge wire (.51mm)
• 4mm needles - 2 dpns, wood or bamboo are best
• bracelet finding - hook & eye style, bar & loop or lobster clasp & jump ring
• pliers & wire cutters

Sizing
One size - length to fit. If left flat, approximately 1 inch wide; if curled for bangle, approximately 1/2 inch wide.

Gauge
Doesn't matter, for once!

Method
Cast on 6 stitches - the long-tail method is best. Knit until bracelet measures 6-7 inches long. Cast off loosely.

For a cuff style bracelet, leave flat. For a bangle style bracelet, roll piece lengthwise around one of your dpns.

Attach findings. Weave in ends, using pliers.

If you're interested in learning more, I definitely recommend you check out the Modesitt book.

Continuing on the Topic of Tech Editing: What Drives You Crazy?

I make no secret of the fact that I get cranky about poorly written knitting patterns - as a designer and tech editor, it feels like an opportunity missed. A weak pattern leads to frustrated knitters, and frustrated knitters become non-knitters.

Now, none of this is to say that I expect every designer to be a great pattern writer. Designing and writing patterns are different skills - and that's ok! I would rather that the incredibly creative genius designer types focus their time and skills on that!

It's all about division of labour: leave the creativity and designing to the designers, leave the pattern writing to the pattern writers. If you're a designer, get a tech editor to help you with your pattern!

At Sock Summit, I'm teaching a class on how to write up a good sock pattern, and I want to pass along as many suggestions as possible for what to do (and what not to do).

To help me with that, a little survey for you, my dear readers: what drives you insane in patterns? What do you wish was better explained? What frustrates you?

Let me know, so I can do my bit to help educate pattern writers - and become a better tech editor, too.

Leave comments or drop me an email. Thank you!

How I Celebrated World-Wide Knit in Public Day

Dexter is eagerly awaiting the arrival of They Might Be Giants onstage for their Luminato arts festival gig. The bag is full of treats and toys we bought him at the Woofstock dog festival.

A good day for the whole family.

Reader Mail: How to become a tech editor

A reader commented on my post about my technical editing work, asking how one becomes a tech editor.

There are two parts to this: how you get the required experience to be able to proudly describe yourself as a tech editor, and how you find the work?

How to get some experience and learn the trade:
1. Well, ok, the first one is obvious, but you should knit a lot. Knit from other people's patterns, all sorts of garments and accessories and items. Knit patterns published in different countries - UK standards can be very different than US standards; knit from European patterns - very, very different. Knit from different books and magazines and designers. And knit as many different things as you can, so that you're familiar with all sorts of garment constructions and types of patterns. A sock tech editor, for example, needs to know how to do toe-up and top-down.

2. Do some sample and test knitting. Designers are always looking for people (yes, me too!) to produce samples and to test knit patterns to review the instructions. This gets you in the position of being able to see patterns as they develop, and to provide feedback on how a pattern is written. Test knit instructions can often be rougher, less well articulated, than final patterns - and this gives you a chance to review for mistakes and missing info, and think through a pattern and how it can best be written.

3. Write some patterns of your own. You don't necessarily have to be designing complex garments, but write out a pattern for your favourite scarf or hat. Next time you make an on-the-fly modification to a pattern, write it down and then write the pattern for what you did.

3. i) When writing up a pattern, use formats/templates from different publications as a guide.

5. And last but not least, attend my "Writing Up A Awesome Sock Pattern" class at Sock Summit... You know, if you happen to be in Portland this summer.

As to finding the work, as with most things, it's about putting yourself in opportunity's way. Make contacts; get to know designers, through Ravelry, meeting them at local events, taking their classes. Talk the them! Volunteer your time - as a test knitter, as a tech editor, as a proofreader. Trust me, any designer will be thrilled with an offer of test knitting, and will be very grateful.

On that note... I've got a shawl pattern I need a sample worked up from... anyone?

Serious Knitting Injury

A long-time student and knitting friend of mine, the lovely J., shares with us a cautionary tale.

She was on a very crowded streetcar on the way home from work, as always, with a sock project. In the shuffle to disembark, her knitting bag was pushed against her, and one of her wooden sock needles stuck her in the leg.

Although it stung, she didn't worry too much about it at the time, and upon inspection, it hadn't bled.

The next day, her leg was feeling sore, and looking bruised and swollen around the injury site. And over the next few days, it got more and more sore, and more and more swollen, necessitating a trip to the emergency room. A tetanus shot and a big box of antibiotics later, she's feeling much better, I'm pleased to report.

The doctors say that it was likely a combination of factors: the needle unluckily hit a vein, and some opportunistic bacteria took advantage.

Still, lesson learned - a needle spike shouldn't be ignored.

New Friends

I do so love the internet. Earlier this year I had an email from a knitter in Iceland. Hrönn, a fashion designer and teacher, was coming to Toronto and she had a few questions about what to see and do here.

(You should visit her blog; even if you don't read Icelandic, you can see pictures of her work, all original designs modeled herself and by her beautiful daughter.)

We had a lovely chat by email, and I had fun sharing with her all the great things I love to do in this city.

She was here this past week, and we arranged to meet.

Hrönn is an amazing woman - she was wearing a dress she had designed herself from vintage fabric, and she fitted in so very well with the boho chic on display in Kensington market in the summer. I loved spending time with her (and her friends) and talking about knitting, beer, fashion and family life.

And she brought me a gift: a big bag of Lopi yarns! Beautiful, fine, natural coloured Lopi yarns. Laceweight Lopi! Just the sort of stuff I love. Hrönn doesn't know this about me, but I'm well-known among my knitting friends as the girl who can wear Lopi next to my skin, so she can be certain I will enjoy working with and wearing it.

I'm already considering a lace design or two for these yarns.

She also brought me a book of Lopi patterns (in English, thank goodness) I've never seen before, which has a fascinating history of Lopi knitting.

And tucked in with the yarn was some Opal licorice candy - a typical, traditional Icelandic treat. I absolutely love the box design.

Thank you, Hrönn (even though I can't pronounce your name properly!) - it was great to meet you, and it was very sweet of you to bring me such wonderful gifts.

Christmas in June?

Hitsuji: Chunky weight Noro Kureyon.

Cannot wait to get some of this on my needles.

I may well be hyperventilating.

Busy; Technical Editing

I've been quiet here of late... been very busy with some technical editing. I am regularly blogging at the Knittyblog, as I hope you're aware?

The thing I've been most excited about from my discoveries for the Knittyblog is the Winchester School of Art Knitting Reference Library at the University of Southampton. (Go read the Knittyblog post for the background on this! It's very cool!) A selection of 19th century knitting manuals has been made available in PDF format for download - all fully legal.

I downloaded several - at first for sheer amusement value - I mean, honestly, how could I resist a booklet called "Ladies Work for Sailors". My perhaps slightly overactive imagination had fun trying to parse all the possible options.... were sailors expected to be doing work for ladies? Or the work of ladies? Or ladies doing work for sailors...

But once the amusement value wears off, these booklets are absolutely amazing treasure troves. They span 100 years of knitting history - from early 1800s to the early 1900s (whence my Sailor's work booklet came). There are stitch patterns galore, and instructions for all sorts of garments, fancy, fanciful and practical.

What's most interesting to me, as a technical editor, is the way the patterns are written. Some of them are more detailed, more precise, more easily followed than others... and it's interesting to see how standards of pattern writing shift over time.

The preface to the very first one reads... "Many practical patterns remain unused for the want of a few clear directions for working them."

Amen to that.

I spend a fair bit of my time working as a technical editor. I love this work, and it seems that it's just about the perfect occupation for me: I get to exercise my university degree in mathematics, I get to indulge my attention to detail, and I get to feed my need for consistency and style.

And really - that's what it's all about - making sure the directions are clear.

I'm a member of the technical editing team for Knitty, and have worked on a number of projects for Cooperative Press, including Silk Road Socks. My editorial role at A Needle Pulling Thread also includes technical editing responsibilities, and I've worked with several designers, too.

I've been asked more than once what a technical editor does, and why we're needed.

In short, technical editors make sure that a pattern works.

The first thing we do is to make sure the pattern is complete. Is there complete information on required materials - yarn, needles, notions, etc.? I just edited a pattern for a pillow cover, and in the materials list, it just said "pillow form" - but I know that pillow forms come in various sizes, so to help out the knitter I added information about the size required. Is there gauge info? Are there instructions for all pieces? (E.g. If it's a cardigan, are the instructions for all the pieces there?) Are the finishing instructions complete... ? And so forth.

And then we check the numbers. We check the stitch counts - making sure that math works.

And it's not just about confirming that the increase and decrease numbers are correct. We also check to make sure that the stitches given produce a piece of the expected size... and for a garment or item that comes in multiple sizes, we check the sizing. I ran into a sock pattern recently that proposed a foot circumference of 9 inches for a women's medium foot. The pattern was correct, but that isn't a reasonable size for a medium - that's a large or extra large, no question.

But I actually spend the most time thinking about readability.

I believe my experience in the IT industry,specifically as a technical writer, has provided invaluable perspective for this.

I tweeted a couple of weeks ago... "no matter how easy something is to knit, if the pattern isn't written to be beginner-friendly, then it doesn't qualify for "easy" rating". The instructions have to be clear, and they have to make sense, and they have to explain things at an appropriate level.

I have been known to get pretty worked up about this sort of thing...

For example, if your pattern says "Cast on 30 sts, work 12 rows in k2, p2 ribbing increasing 1 st in the middle of the last row", then that qualifies it as more difficult. It's easy to knit, yup, but that assumes a lot of knowledge on the part of the knitter.

It assumes you know how to work (k2, p2) ribbing; it assumes you are comfortable keeping track of rows, it assumes that you know how and where to increase. All well and good for a more experienced knitter, but not so good for beginners. And that "increasing 1 st at middle of last row" - well, that's not just about assumed knowledge, but it also supposes that the knitter will read ahead.

For it to be beginner friendly, it needs to say:
Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat rows 1 & 2 four more times, and work row 1 once more.
Row 12 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * 7 times, p1, m1, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. 31 sts.

This is one of the reasons I love teaching - I am reminded every week about what beginners find easy to understand, and what's challenging for them!

Creative Knitting Magazine July Issue: Slipper Suite

I'm very happy to announce that I have a design in the just-published July issue of Creative Knitting Magazine.

These slippers are an evolution of my Open House sock, with improved fit and different finishes. They are worked with fingering weight sock yarn, from the toe-up, using the very clever Judy's Magic Cast on, although they are mostly worked flat.

There are three different styles of edgings, and they are sized for women and girls.

An excellent solution for using up leftover sock yarn, and a very quick gift, too!

Mothra Attacks!

A word to strike fear in the heart of any knitter: moths.


In short, if you see this guy, panic.

Since the spring weather has finally arrived, I decided to dig around in the bottom of my closet to get out some of my summer shirts, and put away some of our heavier sweaters.

I was moving things around, and spotted a little flying thing. A little flying thing that looked suspiciously like the one above...

And then one of its friends appeared.

And I knew. We had moths. Oddly, for a wool-obsessed knitter, they're not in my stash, but in our bedroom closet. We pulled everything out of the closet, took two giant armfuls to the dry cleaners, and threw everything else in the laundry.

While this was going on, I did a bit of research, thanks to Wikipedia and University of Kentucky Entomology department. Moths are scary for a number of reasons: they eat your clothes and particularly your wool, but they can also be quite difficult to get rid of without nasty chemicals. (If it was still winter, I could have just left everything outside - freezing works well.) We vacuumed the entire closet, all surfaces, and we did use an insecticide spray.

This would have been easier if it had hit my stash, since it's easier to package things up for freezing - or indeed cooking, as 45 mins at 120 degrees F also works - but it's a little harder with actual clothes.

We've got cedar strips in the closet now, will put in traps and will continue to monitor closely.

Now I'm just looking for someone with an ironing fetish to help me with the 50+ items waiting to go back into the closet...

Reader Mail: 2.5mm needles - Which US Size?

A reader who purchased the Herringbone scarf pattern asked a question in the comments about needle size.

The pattern for the scarf suggests 2.5mm needles with the Noro Sekku.

The question:

I've got the pattern and I have the yarn! But... I need to purchase the needles and am confused. You have 2.5 mm listed. I get this warning when trying to order (Watch those US sizes! Addi calls their 2.5mm needle a US#1, but Inox calls their 2.5mm needle a US#2.) So which did YOU use.. US#1 or US#2

Also, which US# for the casting off 3.5 mm needle?

I'm going to sound insane when I say this, but I used 2.5mm needles. Really. You're right, the problem is that there isn't an agreed-upon conversion for the 2.5mm size. At Knitty, we tend to refer to it as US Size #1.5. Most needle size conversion tables (a handy one can be found at yarnstandards.com)list US #1 as 2.25mm metric, and US #2 as 2.75mm metric, and then you get all sorts of nonsense going on for 2.5mm. Some brands and companies stick to the US sizing, which means that a 2.5mm can't be had.

Now, both Addi and Inox needles are manufactured in metric sizes, being European brands, so it this case, it actually doesn't matter what they say the US size is, just make sure you buy on that's labelled at 2.5mm.

And because this is a scarf and gauge doesn't matter all that much, if you really can't find an actual 2.5mm needle, go with a US #2/2.75. The fabric will be a bit looser and drapier, but that's not a bad thing.

As for casting off, I tend to use a larger needle for casting off to ensure a flexible edge. I've recommended at 3.5mm, which is listed without much disagreement as a US #4. Hope this helps! If you can't find one of those, a 3.75mm/US 5 will work just as well.

New Design: Wings of the Pigeon? Beginner-friendly Lace Scarf and Shawl

Earlier this year I published a design for a Noro scarf that uses a very simple lace pattern stitch to great effect. (So simple, in fact, that there's a only a single, easily memorized pattern row!)
The pattern stitch causes the rows to curve, creating really great scalloped edges, and a rather wonderful zig-zag effect in the stripes. It looks great with the Noro yarns because the stripes are thick.

I'd bought some Zauberball Sock yarn - at the last Sock Summit, actually! - and it sat for a while in my stash before I figured out what to do with it. I love the yarn, but it's too nice (and perhaps a little too fragile) for socks.

I knew I wanted to do something interesting with the stripes. Inspired by both this rectangular scarf and some pictures of triangular shawls, I did the math for a semi-circle, using the same basic lace pattern.

And this is what resulted!



It's been fondly known around here as "Wings of the Pigeon". (I'd been trying to think of a name for the shawl, and I asked Norman what bird the colours suggested to him... )

I'm very pleased with this design - it's a great combination of stitch pattern and yarn, and it's garnered a lot of compliments from both knitters and non-knitters.

The pattern write-up includes both the rectangular and semi-circular versions, and it's written specifically to be accessible to even non lace knitters. The rectangle is a great place to start if you've never tackled lace, and the semi-circle is a little bit more challenging, but it's still entirely friendly and makes great travel knitting.

Both designs use a single ball of yarn, making them reasonably quick and inexpensive projects. They look best in yarns that have long stretches of colors, to create nice thick stripes. I recommend Zauberball sock, Noro Silk Garden or Taiyo Sock yarns, Mary Maxim Step It Up, or similar.



With 460yds of sock yarn and 3.5mm needles, you get a semi-circular shawl 127 cm/50 inches wide x 55 cm/22 inches long.

460yds of Noro Sekku laceweight and 2.5mm needles gives a rectangular scarf 28 cm/11 inches wide x 127 cm/50 inches long. Fingering weight sock yarns work brilliantly for this design, also, and give a larger finished product. If you do want to work the rectangular scarf with a thicker yarn, use larger needles. The pattern has notes on yarn substitution and needle size.

I've also provided instructions for blocking, helpful for the new lace knitter.

Pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry and Patternfish.

Frolic: Holy Cow

I had such a great time at the Frolic on Saturday - I taught three classes, and met many new friends.

The problem was that this great time teaching was so busy that I didn't get a minute to do any shopping.

I rushed past the booths of some friends, and was able to wave, but my wallet and shopping bag remained sadly closed. If you saw me, and I didn't say hello - please accept my apologies.

I've been told it was a good show, though. Did you have fun?

DKC Frolic: Upcoming Classes & Shopping List

Just a reminder: I'm teaching at the Frolic this weekend.

There are a few spaces left in two of my classes: Custom Fit Socks, and Crochet for Knitters.

You can register at the door - if you do plan to, please check the class info regarding homework.

Crochet for Knitters
Even if you’re not interested in doilies and afghans, crochet is an
incredibly useful skill for the knitter. This two-hour session teaches
you how to bring the power of the crochet hook to your knitting—to
pick up dropped stitches and fix mistakes, for painless seaming, for
creating decorative edgings and joins, and for the mysterious and
wonderful provisional cast-on.

Custom Fit Socks
Liberate yourself from pattern books! Learn how to create a topdown
or toe-up sock pattern for any yarn, and for any foot, and how
to make your own design customizations like pattern stitches and
colourwork.

As to my shopping list... Because I'm teaching, I've got precisely 2 half hour breaks for shopping during the day.... It does keep one focused and within a budget.

The key item on my list for this year is more tools for my mini-knitting kit. I was shopping for this stuff last year, but am still seeking a couple of key items.

I use a little Altoids gum tin, and in it I keep:
-a bunch of safety pins and markers (on a little ring)
-a smallish fabric tape measure
-two crochet hooks - a bamboo one, about 3mm, and the smallest from the Lacis Ebony "Wanda" set (near the bottom of this page). The Lacis one is very clever, being double-ended. It's actually a set of three, but the larger two are too long to fit in my tin.
-a pair of "Puppy Snips" mini scissors.
-two of my beloved coil-less safety pins, for use as holders
-a darning needle - one of the bent-tip Clover needles I love so much
-and unnecessarily but rather adorably, a pair of 3mm 3 inch long bamboo straight knitting needles.

This is the tin I keep in my purse, for when I don't have my full knitting bag and toolkit with me. My purse is pretty small, so I don't want a giant tin, and I don't need the full set of tools, but I am trying to collect the key items.

I'm still seeking a retractable tape measure, and I'd love a little ruler of some kind. I'd actually also like a slightly larger container - not deeper or wider, but definitely a bit longer. The larger Wanda crochet hooks, and the crochet hook/cable needle combo version are a little longer than 4 inches.

The search continues.

I'm also, as always, looking for new and interesting (or indeed old and interesting) books. I'm sure Marsha at Needle Arts Book Shop will have something to tempt me.

Even if you're not in any of my classes, I hope to see you there.

Sock Summit 2011

You might recall that in August of 2009 I made the pilgrimage to Portland, OR, to attend the inaugural Sock Summit.

I worked in the booth of my lovely friends at Signature Needle Arts. I got to knit socks all day long, drinking strong Pacific Northwest-style coffee, next to a team of lovely people, in a giant room full of sock knitters. Just about the dream business trip.


Well, this year, it's going to be even better.

Busier. But better.

For I am teaching!

I am thrilled to be in such great company, sharing the air and schedule with true knitting legends.

My three classes:
Two Socks in One: The War & Peace Method
Challenge yourself! Beat Second Sock Syndrome! Amaze your friends! This class teaches the legendary technique for simultaneously knitting two socks on the same needles – one inside the other, as mentioned by Tolstoy in War and Peace. In the class, we’ll work a pair of mini socks to practice this fascinating technique, and we’ll get you ready to tackle your first full size pair. The design we work is top-down, but the techniques I teach are easily applied to toe-up knitting. You’ll leave with a pattern and full instructions.

Designing Your Own Custom-Fit Socks
Liberate yourself from pattern books and ensure your socks really fit properly! Learn how to create a completely custom top-down or toe-up sock pattern – for any yarn, and any foot – or how to modify an existing one. We’ll cover knee socks, and discuss special fit requirements like high arches, flat feet, skinny and not-so-skinny ankles. I will show you how to deal with pattern stitches like lace, cables and colorwork, and how to manage differences in gauge and fabric stretch. You’ll leave the class with a set of templates and guidelines for all your sock-fitting needs.

Writing Up An Awesome Sock Pattern
You’ve designed a great sock, and now it’s time to write up the pattern to share with other knitters. This class will show you how to write up a sock pattern that any knitter can follow. We will discuss sizing and fit, addressing when and how to provide multiple sizes. I will share secrets for handling pattern stitches, both written and charted, and provide tips for creating easy-to-read charts. I'll also discuss needle choice and configuration (4 or 5 DPNs, 2 circulars and magic loop), covering when it’s best to be specific, and how to convert from one needle setup to another. And of course, I'll share with you the three key tricks to make sure both knitters and technical editors love you!

This one is designed to be a nice complement to Amy Singer's "Making the Next Monkey" class, which talks about how to design a really great sock, and make it attractive for publishing.

I can't wait to see my friends again, share some of my knitting tips and opinions, and expand my knowledge and stash....

More info about my classes here, and about the event here.

Registration will be opening shortly.

Lace 102 Sampler Pattern Now Available

By request, I have put together a pattern and tutorial for my Lace 102 sampler.

This sampler is designed to be a learning tool for lace knitters, as an option for those who want to expand their skills but can’t make it to one of my classes in person.

It features a variety of lace stitch patterns, all challenging in different ways, to allow you to experiment and learn some new techniques.

I’ve used some all-over patterns, and some single lace motifs worked on a plain background; I’ve used some lace with a stocking stitch ground (that is, with purl WS), some with a garter stitch ground (with knit WS); there are patterns worked on one side only, and patterns worked on both sides. There are patterns with variable numbers of stitches, and a pattern that featured delayed decreases. I’ve used some tricky and unusual stitches like s2kpo and p2tog tbl. And there are the often-feared Estonian nupps.

The sampler ends with an applied edging.

Charts and written instructions are provided for all pattern stitches. And each individual pattern section includes detailed instructions on how to work it, and tips & tricks for handling the particular challenge of that pattern.

Available from Ravelry and Patternfish.

In pieces:

It begins with the classic and elegant Shetland Razor Shell - interesting because of the specific central double decrease, and challenging because it's not easy to place markers.

Then there's an Estonian butterfly, with nupps. Interesting and challenging because of... well, the nupps.

And a classic two-sided lace, a garter faggoting stitch. Decreases worked over yarnovers - fun!


Above that, there is a Shetland Fern, which takes an otherwise straightforward lace motif and adds patterned wrong side rows.

And then Little Fountain, which introduces delayed decreases - that is, decreases worked a row or two after their corresponding yarnovers - making the pattern a challenge to count and keep track of.

Above Little Fountain is a classic and elegant lace leaf, which seriously messes with your stitch count... 1 stitch increased to 9 and then back down again.

Above the Leaf is a lace ladder featuring the pesky double yarnovers.

And then there's a Gardenia flower, which has more wrong-side patterning and some tricksy decreases... p2tog tbl, anyone?


And then of course, an applied edging to finish.

Lots to play with, and lots to learn, in an evening or two's knitting. Think of it as a sandbox for lace knitters.

Knitter's Frolic: Classes

I say this every year, but I really do mean it:

The Downtown Knit Collective's Knitter's Frolic is one of my favourite events of the year. It's a full day of shopping and teaching fun.

I'm teaching three classes:

Crochet for Knitters
This class is for knitters who don't have any crochet experience at all. The focus is on how to use a crochet hook to assist with and embellish your knitting: as edgings, as seams, as structural supports and reinforcements, and as a quick and easy way to lengthen too-short sleeves.

Two Socks on Two Circulars
Banish second sock syndrome, and make sure your two socks match exactly by working them at the same time. Suitable for both toe-up and top-down sock knitters, we work one of my signature "training sock" projects to work through the process and get you comfortable. Suitable for knitters who have some sock knitting experience.

And Designing Your Own Custom-Fit Socks
If you're going to go to the trouble of knitting socks, let's make sure they fit you well. I'll cover both top-down and toe-up methods, showing how to take a couple of key measurements and create a sock that actually fits, no matter what size your feet are. I cover special fit requirements like skinny and not-so-skinny ankles, flat feet and high arches, and how to elegantly handle two different size feet. I'll also share tips for resizing an existing sock pattern. Suitable for knitters who have some sock knitting experience.

See this page for registration information.

A Work of Art

A student from one of my recent project class, Will, has shared with me the photos of his finished project.

He was a new knitter when he started the class, and had a very specific project in mind: a scarf for his girlfriend, themed for the country of her birth, Finland.

Specifically, he wanted to knit a scarf with the Finnish flag and "a few bars of the Finnish national anthem" on it. He even had a chart, carefully prepared in MS Excel.

Now, I'm not a good poker player, so I suspect I might have blanched a little when he told me this. I immediately envisioned a lot of very complex Fair Isle and Intarsia.

I asked a couple of questions about his knitting skill level, and his tolerance for insanity, and we landed very quickly on duplicate stitch as the solution. To knit a plain white scarf, and duplicate stitching the rest.

He tackled the project with aplomb, skill, and a careful hand, and the result is absolutely stunning.





I believe this is a birthday gift, but I, frankly, would say that this is engagement-worthy. I know that she's a knitter, and I certainly would accept something like this in lieu of a ring. If this lovely lady doesn't spend the rest of her life with Will, I (and I suspect he) will be sorely disappointed.

Busy weekend: Spring Creativ Festival Talks & then to New Hamburg!

This coming weekend - Friday April 15 & 16 - it's the spring Creativ Festival in Toronto.

I'm appearing there on the Friday, giving three talks - free with admission!

Yarn Knowledge Mystified by all these terms - double knitting, worsted, aran? Unsure whether fingering is a potato or a yarn? Wondering why you should care about whether a yarn is superwash or not? This session will explain yarn terminology, help you understand yarn substitution and gauge, and make you a more confident yarn shopper and knitter.

Cast Ons & Cast Offs Improve your knitting and expand your knowledge by trying and adding some new cast-ons and cast-offs to your repertoire. See which cast-on is best for different types of projects. Plus, I'll share tips to help you achieve that elusive loose cast-off.

Fibre Care You’ve spent a lot of time knitting or crocheting your garment, now let’s make sure it stays beautiful forever. Discover how to properly wash and store your finished items, whether wool, cotton or a man-made fibre. Kate Atherley will explain all those strange symbols on the yarn labels, share tips for moth-proofing and show you how proper fibre care can improve the look of the finished items. Samples for everyone courtesy of my good friends at Soak.

I'll also be in the A Needle Pulling Thread booth, showing off some of the projects from previous issues, and perhaps even giving you a sneak preview of some projects from upcoming issues.

More details on the talks here, on the show here.

If you're there, come and say hello!







Immediately afterwards, I am heading out to New Hamburg for a last hurrah/round of classes at the old location of Shall We Knit. I shall very much miss teaching in the sock yarn room, but I'm excited about their new location. I think they'll still try to put me in with the sock yarn, as they know they I always end up buying some...

Kureyon Colour 242: The Perfect Kate Yarn?

I've been working with at lot of Noro Kureyon in colour 242 of late...

I love it because, well, it's Noro... but specifically because it's got precisely and exactly the colours I wear in it: black, orange, red, a bluey-grey and a smattering of green.

First up, there's a crochet scarf, in 2 skeins of the sock weight....

Many props to Tamara and Jennifer for their help with this project - turning me into a real crocheter in the process.




And there's a skirt!

Further details on the skirt next week.

And then, of course, there's what to do with the leftovers of the skirt... I have 49gm (!) left over. The skirt took 3.02 balls of the Kureyon, and I figure there's just enough left for a hat, to match the scarf.

I had the brilliant idea of making a short-row stripes hat in the style of my beloved Lizard Ridge - turns out, I'm not the first to have the idea. Some fun versions of just such a thing on Ravelry.

My other thought is to do a plain black vest and use the Kureyon as stripes.

In the meantime, until I decide, there's a new lace design on my needles, tentatively titled Wings of The Dove.

Update re: Lace Knitting Class

A lovely commenter, Rosie, asks if I'll be selling the sampler pattern as sort of remote lace class.

I can do that!

Email me at kate at wisehildaknits dot com.