Monday, October 20, 2014

Math For Knitters: Upcoming classes, what do you want to know?

Let's just say... hypothetically... that I was working on a class to be delivered online (no, not video, something slightly different) on Math For Knitters.

So, let's say that you signed up for this class. What questions would you want answered? What math problems do you run into with your knitting?

Things I plan to cover in the first half of this hypothetical class:
  • metric/imperial conversions - and why they matter!
  • yardage and making yarn substitutions
  • "increase evenly across"
  • "decrease evenly across"
  • 'reversing shapings' and 'at the same time' and how to handle them
  • bonus topics: estimating yarn usage, and why sock knitters love a digital scale
And in the second half of the class, I want to cover these sorts of things:
  • gauge and what it's all about and why it matters; how to check it and what to do if you're off
  • gauge adjustments - why and how and when; and when not to
  • what if you can't match gauge for a garment - easy solutions!
  • garment alterations and adjustments
    • body length and shaping
    • sleeve length and shaping
    • more complex adjustments
What else? What numbers issues do you need help with? Let me know in the comments below.

I promise I'll announce the details of these classes as soon as I can.







11 comments:

Word Lily said...

Maybe this is more math-tangential, but I couldn't understand ease (positive, negative) when I was a newish knitter for anything. And I couldn't find the information that would have made it click, either. So I think it would be helpful to include definitions of ease, how it's used, how to figure out what's intended from how a pattern's described, as well as what's standard ease (or eases, different for different styles or scenarios) for a hat? For a sweater? Mitts? Socks?

Renee Anne said...

I'm with Lily for this one: positive/negative/zero ease.

Also, and this would probably go with gauge, a quick thing about why you need to wash, dry, and block your gauge swatch. I have a vest that was perfect while I knit it...and then I washed it and it grew so now it's too big (but not so big that I won't wear it).

And, perhaps, what do when you really want to knit a project and it doesn't come in the size you're looking for (I'm thinking of a couple sweaters that don't go up to my size and changing yarn/needles isn't going to help).

Danielle Baines said...

For those of us who frankenstein two sizes together to get a sweater to fit at the shoulders and the hips, is there a standard formula that allows you to use your gauge swatch to determine how place waist decreases/increases vertically over a series of rows? So you get a nice smooth transition from one size to the other. (Because trial and frogging gets old after a while).

Irene O said...

Short rows - where, when & how. Are they necessary for your garment, how to determine if they are. Easiest "no brainer" way to figure them out and apply them to your garment

susanjd said...

great subject!
pick X number of stitches evenly along BO, CO, etc

Anna Davis said...

How to estimate yarn when designing Fair Isle?

And, what the hell does Pam Allen mean by the Pygore...uhhh yeah whatever (LOL) Theory when calculating set in sleeve decreases?!

Diane in Chico said...

Wise Hilda, I would like a better understanding of adjusting row decreases/increases to match my row gauge. Raglans and sleeves are sometimes problematic for me and my friends.

Mary deB said...

When does row gauge matter and how can you fudge that? If you get stitches/inch in width, what can you do to get stitches/inch in length? Not really math, and often you just can knit to the right length, but occasionally row gauge matters...

Allison said...

Sounds interesting -- was it going to be a Craftsy class?

planetKnit said...

How would you determine how much extra yarn would be required if you are going to say, add two inches of length on the body? Or conversely, what if you want elbow-length sleeves instead of long sleeves? I always overbuy because I never want to get caught short. There's gotta be a better way. :)

Sylvie Gagne said...

Math is extremely intimidating to me although I think I'm doing much better than I used to. Oft times a pattern stitch will be 12 stitch repeat + 3. What if I want to make a different edging?